The Omega Speedmaster has always been a favorite of watch lovers, and it’s seen increased attention thanks to some record-breaking auction results and the insane hype surrounding the MoonSwatch release in 2022.
The Speedmaster is the first proper mechanical wristwatch for many enthusiasts, and for some, it’s the only watch they’ll ever own. Let’s discuss some key points to keep in mind if you’re considering purchasing an Omega Speedmaster.

1. Size
First up, let’s talk about sizing. If you’ve had the chance to get hands-on with a lot of watches, then you’ll know that the numbers on paper don’t always correspond to how a watch feels on your wrist. And if you read articles online on the subject of watch sizing, then you’ll know that the Omega Speedmaster is often cited as a timepiece that’s a little deceptive.
On paper, a Speedmaster Professional typically measures 42 mm in diameter, 47 mm lug-to-lug, and 13 mm in thickness. Although that sounds big, the final product feels more compact. There are a couple of reasons for this. First, the 42-mm diameter includes the crown guard, but the width of the watch including the bezel is only about 40 mm, meaning the Speedmaster wears more like a 40-mm timepiece. Second, the 13-mm thickness includes the domed crystal and case back. When you’re wearing the watch, these elements will largely disappear, leaving you with the mid-case as the main element, which is quite thin.
Other variants of the Speedmaster, such as the Dark Side of the Moon, have much larger diameters of 44.25 mm. These watches are certainly better-suited to larger wrists. If you prefer a more understated look, you may like the Speedmaster Reduced, which looks strikingly similar to the Professional. With a diameter of 39 mm, the model is ideal for slimmer wrists. Variants from the Speedmaster 38 series, on the other hand, make great unisex watches. As you can see, the selection of sizes is as diverse as wrists, guaranteeing there is a watch for nearly every Speedmaster fan.
2. The Professional
If you’re thinking about buying an Omega Speedmaster, you’ll inevitably be faced with the question of which one to choose from the countless variations on the market. These include models with moon phase displays and calendar functions, the Reduced mentioned above, special Olympic and anniversary editions, and even some funky 1970s versions. For many fans, however, there is no choice but the classic Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Since 2024, this cult icon has been available with an all-white dial.
3. Movement
Omega offers the Speedmaster with the option of an automatic or manual movement. Purists tend to opt for models with hand-wound calibers, such as the last “real” Moonwatch ref. 311.30.42.30.01.005. Many collectors also seek out versions with the Omega caliber 321 that was used in early models. If you decide manual is for you, you must remember to regularly wind your watch to keep it running. If, however, you prefer the convenience of an automatic movement, you won’t be left high and dry by this collection.
4. Lume
The luminous material used on hands and indices is another factor to consider. Around 1997, Omega changed the luminous material used on the Speedmaster from tritium to LumiNova. Incidentally, Rolex has a similar lume timeline. If you value legibility in poor lighting conditions, you’d best choose a Speedy made after the year 1997, but if you love the warmth and character of vintage tritium, then choose a Speedy from an era prior to this. If you opt for the latter, it’s important to make sure the tritium is still in decent condition and not crumbling around the dial. Repairs can be complex and expensive.
5. Servicing
Now let’s talk maintenance. Watches are machines, and all machines need a tuneup every now and then. Robert Jan-Broer, founder and editor-in-chief of Fratello Magazine and the Internet’s foremost expert on Omega Speedmasters, recommends getting them serviced once every seven years on average. If a Speedmaster is your daily driver, and you’re putting more miles on it, you may want to have it checked out a little more frequently. If it’s just one watch in a larger collection, then you can go longer without a service.
6. Original parts and accessories?
The Omega Speedmaster has been in production for over 60 years now, with countless references popping up along the way. Many elements change from reference to reference, including movement, hand shape, bezel style, crown guard (or lack thereof), lume type, case back style, crystal, logo, etc. In the end, these are relatively minor differences, but since collecting watches is all about the details, it’s helpful to know which combination you prefer. And perhaps more importantly, it’s helpful to know that the watch you’re getting has the correct parts, especially if it’s a vintage model.
When doing your research, you should make sure the watch you desire comes as complete as possible. Of course, a full set is the non plus ultra, but they are increasingly rare to find, especially for vintage models. If you do get your hands on one, expect to pay a handsome price for the privilege. You should also take note of whether the watch has ever been polished and, if so, to what extent. It’s better to purchase an unpolished Speedmaster with a few nicks than an over-polished one with no bevels or edges. If you’re unsure where a watch falls on the spectrum, consult an expert. And finally: If the model you want is available on an original steel bracelet – and everything else is up to snuff – go for it. Original bracelets are a rarity these days and correspondingly expensive.
7. Water Resistance
Theoretically, you can swim with an Omega Speedmaster on your wrist, even though many watch influencers suggest otherwise. If you follow watch memes on Instagram, then you’ll likely have seen a meme or two (or hundreds) about the Speedmaster’s lack of water resistance. Many people think the watch that went to the Moon can’t handle a casual swim. This has some truth to it, and I wouldn’t recommend swimming with a vintage Omega Speedmaster with 30 m (3 bar, 98 ft) of water resistance, or one that hasn’t been pressure tested in the last couple of years. But modern Speedmasters are water-resistant to 50 m (5 bar, 164 ft), which is considered safe for a dip in the pool – just make sure not to use the pushers or crown when it’s submerged. Technical specs aside, why would you wear a chronograph or Moonwatch in the pool anyway?
That wraps up our seven things to consider when buying an Omega Speedmaster. If you’re thinking of taking the plunge, you now know where to start. Tell us below if we’ve missed anything!