With versatile technologies and countless dial variants inspired by nature and culture, it’s no easy task to pick the best Grand Seiko watches. To cover all my bases, I’ve selected models that cover all three of the brand’s main technologies, stand out from one another, and can be worn for a variety of occasions.
Three Technologies at the Heart of Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko is a key member of the luxury watch industry; an industry that has won the hearts of consumers primarily by reinterpreting the mechanical watch as a luxury good and collector’s item. Of course, models powered by mechanical movements – mainly automatic, but occasionally also hand-wound – play a pivotal role in the brand’s portfolio. Quartz watches, i.e., those powered by batteries and featuring an artificial quartz crystal as a regulating mechanism, hold a more minor position in this market segment. Other brands typically use quartz movements for entry-level models or compact ladies’ watches, but this is not the case with Grand Seiko. The first quartz watch was developed by Seiko, and Grand Seiko is likewise proud of this tradition. The luxury manufacturer installs particularly precise and attractively finished quartz movements in dedicated models. A unique selling point of the brand is Grand Seiko’s proprietary Spring Drive technology, a hybrid system that combines the precision of a quartz watch with the traditional structure of a mechanical movement. This is achieved by largely adopting mechanical movement architecture, but using a high-precision, quartz-powered circuit to control the escapement, the heart of the watch that determines rate and accuracy. Some of the brand’s most famous models use Spring Drive technology. These timepieces are in no way inferior to mechanical watches in terms of prestige, have been on the market for decades, and are well established among enthusiasts. Now that we’ve introduced the three hearts that can beat in a Grand Seiko watch, the question remains: Which models are the most desirable? We’ve deliberately concentrated on models that are suitable for everyday use, excluding any highly complex or particularly expensive models.
The Best Mechanical Grand Seiko Models
The year 2020 saw a major upheaval at Grand Seiko, whereby new generations of mechanical and Spring Drive movements were introduced, but also a new design philosophy with the Evolution 9 collection. Grand Seiko is especially known for its excellent hand-finished cases. This has remained consistent with the new collection, which features case shapes inspired by historic models from the 1960s, but with softer lines.

Equipped with the ultra-modern, high-frequency 9SA5 automatic movement, SLGH models are considered the crème de la crème of mechanical Grand Seikos from the 2020s. Whether it’s the iconic SLGH005 White Birch, the streamlined SLGH019, or the limited edition SLGH021, with an SLGH you’re getting Grand Seiko mechanics in a modern, purist form. If the Evolution 9 line is too tame for you, you can check out on the more striking, historic 62GS or 44GS case shapes. For example, the SBGH341 reinterprets the 62GS case shape in a modern way and features a titanium case and bracelet, another Grand Seiko specialty. In terms of power reserve, at 72 hours, the “older” models barely fall shy of the 80 hours of the newer generation, but the balance wheel operates at an energy-saving 4 Hz, which equates to reduced precision.

The Best Spring Drive Models From Grand Seiko
As with the mechanical models, 2020 also marked the launch of a new generation of Spring Drive timepieces, which are powered by newly developed movements. While the hybrid Spring Drive movements previously looked almost indistinguishable from mechanical automatic movements, Grand Seiko’s new iterations have a look all their own.

The SLGA025 from the new Spring Drive generation was presented in 2024, and stands out from the brand’s already impressive dial portfolio. Its emerald green, textured surface changes depending on the angle and sets itself apart from the established Spring Drive designs. I think this watch has what it takes to become a new cult model. What’s more, the new calibers guarantee a 120-hour power reserve from two barrels, with precision performance at quartz levels. A power reserve indicator is discreetly housed in the rear of the 9RA2 movement.

Older generations of Spring Drive movements are likewise impressive, although their 72-hour power reserve is significantly less than that of their modern counterparts. A classic choice here would be the legendary Snowflake SBGA211 in a titanium case, although I personally prefer the SBGA375 and especially the SBGA373 models in a steel case with the 44GS design.
The Best Quartz Watches From Grand Seiko
While the mechanical and Spring Drive lines have seen a flood of innovations and models in recent years, the number of quartz movements has not changed for a long time. The Grand Seiko website lists around 14 different models (as of the start of 2025). Maximalists can opt for a GMT function and date display here, while minimalists can go for a model with the 9F61 movement, which ensures a particularly uncluttered dial thanks to the absence of complications.

The SBGX347 is a purist model on a leather strap: three hands and the Grand Seiko logo, no unnecessary lettering, no date window, applied indices, and a simple white dial. With a diameter of 34 mm, it makes an excellent unisex model – thanks to the trend towards smaller men’s watches – and is marketed as such. The handsome, temperature-compensated quartz movement is concealed by a solid, decorated case back, which is a shame in one sense, but underlines the purist character. The SBGX347 is the perfect understatement for Grand Seiko fans.
The Best Grand Seiko Watches: Conclusion
Whether you opt for classic mechanics, a quartz watch from the pioneers of this technology, or the unique Spring Drive system, at Grand Seiko, you’re getting a watch with enormous vertical integration, equipped with an in-house movement, and finished to a high standard. All this is available at a price on par with the more industrialized competition from Switzerland, whereby the quality – especially in surface finishing – often plays in a higher league.